I made a decision last month that I wanted to have a little mini-holiday on my own but with something good to keep me occupied throughout it. I decided to do a long distance path walk and, after looking at a few different ones, opted for the Cumbria Way because it was convenient to get to and find accommodation for.
The Cumbria Way is 73 miles from Ulverston up to Carlisle. Having recently come back from holiday and due to other commitments, I found it difficult to find enough consecutive days to do the whole walk because I didn't want to rush it and just wanted to amble along, so decided to just go as far as Keswick and then call it a day. Another basis for this decision was that I have never done anything like this before so didn't know whether I would even enjoy it or whether carrying a load of kit with me would set my back pain off and make it too uncomfortable to do it all.
I had to buy myself a new rucksack as the ones I currently have are all too small for this type of thing because, even though I was staying in B&Bs rather than camping, I would still have to carry all my kit with me for the entire trip.
For my own sake so I can refer back to it for my next trip (yes, already thinking about that one), set out below is my kit list:
Berghaus Freeflow II 40l Rucksack
4 x different sized dry bags
Silva compass
'Footprint' The Cumbria Way waterproof map
Long sleeved running top
Short sleeved thermal base layer running top
3 x very lightweight running t-shirts
Zip off leg walking trousers
Lightweight shorts for wearing in evening
Underwear
Socks
Adidas Kanadia shoes (I hate walking boots and the Kanadia offer more cushioning for walking than X-Talons)
Buff (not used)
Gore gloves (not used)
RAB Microlight down jacket (not used)
Berghaus waterproof smock (not used)
Berghaus waterproof pants (not used)
Foil blanket (not used)
Bladder
First aid kit (not used)
Blister plasters (not used)
Trek bars x 2 (not eaten)
Phone charger
Garmin + charger
Portable charging stick
Small tin vaseline (not used)
Sun cream (definitely used!)
Avon skin so soft (for the midges)
Phone (with Kindle installed so no need to carry a book)
Small ziplock bag for cash card and cash
Attack spray (thankfully not used but you never know!)
Whistle
Tissue pack
Toothbrush
Tooth paste
Brush
Bobble
Mini deodorant
Glasses
I think that's it but I might have missed something. I didn't take any toiletries or towels because I was staying in B&Bs so knew all this would be provided.
Anyway, onto the walk...
Day 1 - Ulverston to Coniston
I woke up this morning and thankfully felt fine (read Tuesday's blog if this sounds confusing). I couldn't say the same for Duncan though, who looked like death and was staying off work again to recover. This meant that he also couldn't drive me down to the train station because he was just too rough so I called a taxi instead.
I had to get three trains - one from Horwich to Preston, then Preston to Lancaster, then Lancaster to Ulverston. It was lovely being on such quiet trains instead of crammed onto my usual train far too close for comfort with other people.
Even though it was early, it soon became apparent that the weather was going to be hot hot hot so I zipped the legs off my trousers before I even got off the train and lathered myself in sun cream.
I finally arrived in Ulverston and made my way to the official start of the Cumbria Way.
Official start of The Cumbria Way
Oh and before we go any further, please could I just apologise for the selfies which are going to appear in this post. I was on my own and it had to be done but I do still feel the shame.
Me at the official start sculpture in Ulverston
The guidebook I read said that the first five and a half miles or so of the walk are the most difficult to navigate. They weren't wrong but I still found my way easily enough. The biggest problem for me on the first part of the walk was the amount of fields full of cows I had to cross. There was one field which was flat along the bottom, which was the bit I needed to walk along, but was then a really steep hill up to the top of the field. There were cows all over the flat bit and as I walked towards them, they started standing up one by one and just staring at me. There probably wouldn't have been an issue but, to be on the safe side, I decided to climb up the steep hill, walk along the top of the field and then come back down at the far end of the field to the stile as there weren't any cows that high up.
A short while later I was again confronted by a herd of cows, this time they were right on the other side of the wall I had to climb over so there was no way I could go over as I would have had to step onto them over the stile! I wandered around a bit trying to find an alternative way out of the field but I couldn't find one. Soon, an Australian couple I had been chatting too earlier who were also doing the Cumbria Way, caught up with me so I decided we now had power in numbers. We started to slowly cross the stile and the cows got up and moved away from us. They probably would have done the same thing if I had had the guts to go over on my own but I didn't want to take that chance. you just never know with cows! I left the Aussies slower than me and I carried on along and soon enough my worst fears were realised when I came across this sign on a gate I had to go through...
Luckily, the bull was nowhere to be seen but I did still move pretty quickly through that field and breathed a sigh of relief when I got to the other side of it.
I finally arrived at Gawthwaite where the paths started to get much more obvious and navigation became a doddle. Shortly after leaving Gawthwaite I realised that it had been about seven hours since I ate my breakfast but I hadn't got hungry because I was too busy concentrating on where I was going and avoiding cows. I found a stone bridge over a stream and thought that seemed as good a place as any to stop and eat the sandwiches I had brought with me.
The route started to get a bit more remote after my lunch stop and I eventually arrived at Beacon Tarn.
Beacon Tarn
Selfie at Beacon Tarn
About two and a half miles later, I arrived on the south west side of Coniston Water. By now, I had got used to the weight of my pack which earlier had seemed very heavy. I had made quite a few adjustments to the strap as I walked along and had now got to a point where it was feeling really comfortable, save for the plastic adjusters of my sports bra digging into my chest where the bag straps were on top of them. There was nothing much I could do about that at the minute but I decided that for the next few days I'd go without the sports bra as my base layer was so tight that it held everything in place rather nicely on it's own. Sorry for too much information but I'm going to use this blog entry to refer back to when I plan my next walk so I want to remember little things like this.
For the past couple of hours, I had been craving an ice lolly so when I saw a Walls sign up ahead, I thought it was a mirage. It wasn't! It was a tiny campsite shop which sold lollies and ice creams so I treated myself to an orange Calippo. It was heaven on such a hot day!
The walk along the lake seemed to go on for ages and by now my legs were getting a bit tired so it was a really welcome sight when the town of Coniston came into view up ahead. I made my way straight to my B&B for the night, The Bluebird Lodge.
It was a lovely B&B and was only £45 a night. The room was quite small and the bathroom very small but it was all I needed and was clean and nicely decorated. The owner was also very pleasant and helpful. He commented that I had got there really quickly as most people doing the Cumbria Way don't turn up until at least two hours later than me.
After having a shower and a half hour chill out, I wandered back into the town to find somewhere to eat. After perusing all the menus, I decided on the Yewdale as it was the cheapest and ordered a pint of cider and a cumberland sausage ‘cassoulet’ which was tasty.
Two pints later I wandered back to the B&B and chilled out for the rest of the evening.
Day 2 - Coniston to Great Langdale
Sun still shining outside, I made my way down to breakfast this morning and was very pleasantly surprised at the amount on offer. For £45 I thought I was just get a basic breakfast but there were all sorts of cereals and fruits to choose from, as well as warm croissants, to accompany a cooked breakfast. Of course, being a pig, I went for the full English (as usual asking for no tomatoes or black pudding) and received a nice big helping - two fat sausages, two bacon rashers, fried egg, beans, mushrooms, hash brown and two slices of toast. Yum!
Belly full, I left the B&B and made my way out of Coniston through some lovely green fields.
Leaving Coniston, heading through 'Back Guards Plantation'
After a couple of miles I reached 'The Tarns' at Tarn Hows.
'The Tarns'
Shortly after, I arrived at High Park Coppice and took a short detour down to Colwith Force before rejoining the main path a very short way further along.
Colwith Force
I stopped at the Britannia in Elterwater for a short rest and a drink and then made my way to Chapel Stile, where I got myself a Feast lolly which didn't seem to taste as good as I remember them tasting and I was regretting not buying a Magnum instead.
Soon enough, I was on my way down the hill side into Great Langdale.
Coming down into Great Langdale
The route was a bit at this point, as it took you across to the car park but then instead of going through the gate on the left and along the direct path to the Old Dungeon Ghyll, it took me along the car park towards the buildings then up the path by the ghyll before turning left and making my way along to the Old Dungeon Ghyll.
I arrived there really early as the walk today was only about 12 miles but I was able to check into my room.
The ODG was the most expensive of my three B&Bs at £58 per night but it was also the least fancy. Don't get me wrong, there was nothing at all wrong with the room, it just wasn't a nice as the other rooms. Also, there was no en suite but there was a private bathroom down the hall and they provided a dressing gown and slippers for you to wander there in. The bathroom had a lovely huge shower in it which was nice.
I found myself a table in the beer garden and again bought myself a cool pint of cider whilst waiting for them to start serving food at 6pm. I kept myself occupied by reading the Kindle book I had downloaded onto my phone, which was about the only thing my phone was any use for because I had had no signal on it since the bridge where I stopped to eat my lunch yesterday. Even in Coniston I had no signal whatsoever. I really think there is something seriously wrong with my phone!
ODG Selfie
Day 3 - Great Langdale to Keswick
Breakfast at the ODG was nice but again, was probably my least favourite of the three I had on this trip. Nothing to do with taste, it's just that there wasn't as much as there had been at the other places and I'm a greedy cow. To be fair though, they probably would have given me more if I'd asked. The packed lunch they prepared for me (for £6.50) was a whole different story though - it was HUGE! I had asked for ham and it was proper thick ham on doorstop bread. It also came with a homemade very sticky flapjack, a bag of Seabrooks crisps, a dairy milk, an apple and a bottle of water. I had said that I didn't want the apple so, to my surprise, they gave me an extra chocolate bar instead - a four finger kitkat. Can't complain at that!
Setting off today was the only part of my walk where I went slightly wrong with the navigation but I blame bad wording on my map. The map had said 'bear right at the junction behind the ODG hotel' but if I did that, it took me uphill and I was pretty sure, judging by the contours on the map, that I shouldn't be going uphill. I wandered along a little anyway just to be doubly sure and then I was convinced it was the wrong way so I went back down again and went straight ahead instead.
I was confident that I was now going the right way but kept checking the landmarks on my map to be sure.
Leaving Great Langdale
Eventually I arrived at the foot of the Stake Pass and began the climb up, stopping half way to take a photo.
Looking back down the valley from half way up the Stake Pass
Finally I reached the top.
Cairn at the top of Stake Pass
The view looking down the other side of Stake Pass where I was about to walk
The walk down the other side of Stake Pass was actually tougher going than the walk up had been because it was a really steep zigzagged path of loose small stones which were quite slippery to walk on so I was struggling a little to stay upright. My shoes possibly weren't great for this type of terrain and I'd have been better off with more studded shoes.
Once at the bottom of the valley, the walk along went on for a very long time but it was so beautiful that I didn't care. It was stunning!
I eventually arrived at a little village called Rosthwaite and called at the cafe for a Refresher lolly and a can of Coke. I ate the lolly and put the Coke into my bag to have with my lunch later on and continued on my way.
A while later, after walking for about an hour with a Scottish bloke, I stopped for lunch whilst sitting on a rock in a field above the village of Grange. Only five of six more miles and it would all be over. I felt really sad at this thought and spent the rest of my walk trying to work out a way of being able to complete the walk and get all the way to Carlisle. No matter how much I thought about it, it wasn't to be. Duncan was coming to pick me up tomorrow with my brother and they were going to go mountain biking at Whinlatter Forest. They'd have Ruby with them so I suppose I could go to Caldbeck with Ruby but she's really hard work and, awful as this sounds, she would have taken the fun out of the walk. That probably sounds bizarre given you all know how much I love my little dog but you have no idea how hard work she is to walk with, especially when there's livestock around and I didn't want to spend the entire time just yelling at her and getting stressed out. It was supposed to be a relaxing trip. Also, even if I could get to Caldbeck, I still wouldn't be able to complete the trip because I'd still have Carlisle to do the next day and Duncan was going to Cholmondeley Pageant of Power so couldn't stay over. It's complicated but basically, my trip was soon to be over.
I soon arrived at Keswick and wandered through the centre to get to my B&B, Greystones. I arrived at about 3.40 and there was a sign at the B&B saying they would be back at 4pm so I sat on the bench outside and waited for them to arrive. 4pm came and went and nobody had showed up so I rang the doorbell in case they were already home but were just resting for the afternoon but nobody answered. At about 4.30 I called them to see what time I could check in and the lady I spoke to apologised saying that they weren't expecting me until 5.30 and I did then remember that that is what I had told them. I said it wasn't a problem and there was no need for them to hurry back, I'd just stash my bag somewhere and wander round town.
Whilst wandering around town, I bumped into Brenda and Tony Hesketh on their holidays with Sam and Bilbo which was unexpected. After a brief natter I carried on wandering round before going back and checking into my B&B.
This was the best of the three B&Bs I had stayed in on this trip (£50 per night for single occupancy of a double room).
I was feeling really sad that my journey had ended and I just wanted to carry on walking so I decided that, rather than getting Duncan and my brother to pick me up from Keswick in the morning, I'd walk to Whinlatter and meet them there so at about 8.40 pm I quickly threw my clothes back on and wandered back into town to see whether there was anywhere still open which sold maps. I was quite shocked to find there was and I bought myself a Harvey map of the area. I took it back to my room and spent the next half hour planning a route to Whinlatter Forest for the morning. Yippee, the walk continues, albeit not the right walk!
Day 4 - Grizedale Pike Hike
I woke up with a feeling of emptiness this morning and was finding it hard to come to terms with the fact that my Cumbria Way walk was finished. I enjoyed it so much that I just wanted it to go on and on!
At 7.30 I went down for breakfast which was amazing! It's the first one of my breakfasts that has actually beaten me and I ended up asking for my Cumberland ring to be wrapped in foil to take with me. There was such a huge spread of extras it made me wonder what they do with it all if it doesn't get eaten. They had ready made up pots of layered yoghurt, muesli and fruit, bowls of different fruits, slices of melon and all sorts of other stuff. I just had a bowl of crunchy nut cornflakes and tried to eat it inconspicuously so that nobody noticed that I had no milk on it. I hate milk but I love cereal so I eat it dry like crisps. The bacon on my full English was proper thick stuff and the entire breakfast was delicious and filling. I would highly recommend this B&B if you're staying in Keswick.
Straight after breakfast I set off on my walk to Whinlatter Forest. The first part of this walk took me back along a path I had come over yesterday towards Portinscale. From there, I had to head through farm fields which, you guessed it, were full of cows! This time the cows appeared terrified of me though and were all running off as I walked along. This was good for me!
I followed my map and got to a path along a river. The path was waymarked to Thornthwaite which is where I wanted to head but it turned out not to be a very well traveled route and was extremely overgrown with gorse bushes and other prickly vegetation and soon my legs were cut to ribbons. Relieved to be coming out of the narrow path, I found myself yet again in a field. I looked at my map and saw the direction I needed to head but there was no path at all now, just a rutted field. I wandered around the field for ages and couldn't find a way out of it in the direction I needed to go. I used my compass and knew that I was heading in the right direction but still I couldn't see a way out and the fencing through the field all looked reasonably new. There were streams running through the field and these corresponded with the streams on my map so I knew I was in the right place but I just couldn't get through. Eventually admitting defeat I replotted my route and had to go back through the narrow path of gorse and head instead for Braithwaite.
Once in Braithwaite I decided to just wimp out and head along the road to the trail centre at Whinlatter rather than finding another off-road route because it was getting late and I needed to get there earlier or at the same time as Duncan so that I could take Ruby and he could get on with his ride. I headed up the Whinlatter Pass and when I was about half a mile from the trail centre, Duncan came up behind me in the van so I hopped in for a lift.
I looked at my map again when we arrived and noticed that Grizedale Pike was very near by so I decided to take Ruby on a walk up there and back whilst the lads rode their bikes.
It was quite a climb up to the top from the trail centre and Ruby seemed to be struggling more than I was but it was another warm day and there was no water for her to drink. I kept trying to squirt water from my bladder into her mouth but it kept just squirting her in the eyes. I did manage to get a bit down her though.
We finally reached the top.
Cairn at Grizedale PikeLooking down, I could see a nice path running along a ride so I looked at my map to see if we could go down that way, rather than going back the way we had come. I found that the path would take me all the way down into Braithwaite so I sent Duncan a text telling him I'd see him in the pub there rather than meeting him back at the trail centre.
At first, the path was really steep and full of loose slippery rocks so it was hard work, especially with a rather simple dog strapped to my waist who would keep stopping in front of me as I tried to get down. After a short while the path leveled off and I was able to walk much more easily. The path down to Braithwaite went on for a long time but it was a really nice walk and I was enjoying myself, except at the points where Ruby kept pulling after sheep. This walk did make me realise how glad I was that I hadn't had Ruby with me for my Cumbria Way walk. She would have driven me insane.
We arrived at the pub and I bought a drink and chatted to a couple of blokes whilst waiting for Duncan to come and pick me up. I did have a panic at one moment though thinking that Duncan might not have phone signal in the forest and might not have got my text which would have been a nightmare, but thankfully he did get it and came to pick me up after about an hour.
I keep thinking about doing the walk again and actually going all the way to Carlisle but walking a bit further on the first and second day and staying at Skelwith Bridge rather than Coninston and Great Langdale. I'm just not sure when I'll have time to do it again.
Long as this post is, there's probably loads I have missed but I think I've probably said enough. I'm sure most of you haven't got this far anyway and gave up reading a long time ago!
Total distance - 45.6 miles
